Coconut Country

Well. It’s been 5 days of sitting happily writing, reading and eating. Kerala is “god’s own” apparently. A title Aotearoa might also claim, but NZ doesn’t have enough coconut trees. Spent the first day watching a festival at the Sree Krishna Swamy temple in Ambalapuzha watching elephants parade and warriors dance. I made friends with the local drunk and a sahdu who explained what was going on. An interesting combination. The sahdu had the disconcerting habit of referring to the group of warriors as “I” and their opponents as “you”. So lines like “I will kill you now” had me thinking “oh”.

The following day was St Joseph’s Feast. So I walked down to Karumady Church and ate my share of the feast. Apparently they fed 35,000 people during the day. It was a pretty well run kitchen. The rice bowl was a metre and a half across. It was country style Keralan cuisine. If you hadn’t finished your main they just plonked your dessert on top of your rice.

I also got to paddle around in a canoe. Travelling through the myriad of canals and creeks that link the backwaters together. Watching rice being harvested, thousands of ducks being herded (a specialist art that involves lumps of mud being thrown at them until they swim in the right direction) and clothes, dishes and selves being washed.

We visited the ’snake boat’ which is raced every August. It looked just like a waka. When I got excited about this (it even sits in a wharewaka just like Aotearoa) Benny (who did most of the paddling) also got excited and asked me to send him a photo of a waka with full complement of crew.

My waka

The canoe before Benny cleaned it.

View from the back porch

The view from the back porch.

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