Well. I started at the end of Holi. Down at Chowpatty beach where thousands of young men wash colour out of their hair, clothes and skin and play an odd version of sumo wrestling where one person is thrown out of a square drawn in the sand by another 15 or so.
As I watch hundreds more stream onto the beach and into the water from surrounding neighbourhoods, out of cabs, three to a motorbike and along Marine Drive. I decided to follow this flow of people to its source.
I’d taken a video camera rather than stills because I imagined Holi would be this spectacle best captured in motion but in fact it’s a very intimate, one-on-one engagement. Individuals approach you crying “Happy Holi!” then gently mark your forehead with a brightly coloured tilak. No, they think, that’s not quite right, so they grab you by both cheeks asking “How are you, my friend?” smearing further colour over your face. Now your clothes need some attention and what… no colour on your arms? That can be mended. Top it off with a silver coloured handshake a splash of water and welcome to Holi.
As I got further into the meelee it becomes both more exhuberent and more agressive. Men drink a cocktail of cane juice and what smells like raw alcohol. Encouraging each other to drink more while simultaneously smearing additional colour over each other’s faces. Small pink and purple children run around throwing water at each other. Any idea I had of simply being an observer has long since been abandoned.
Eventually everyone moves off to wash, but the spirit of goodwill remains. Today Bombay is quiet (strangely enough), people take the time to chat and ask questions. Usually when I say I’m writing a screenplay people ask me who will be in the film? Today they ask me to tell them the story. I end up sitting on Marine Drive, under a tree telling the plot to a group of multi-coloured men and women, eating ice-cream and leaving everyone in suspense by not telling them the ending. They laugh, saying “Now we’ll have to see it! We know people like you!”

Back in the hotel. The manager was unimpressed but everyone else who works there laughed, slapped my back and said happy Holi!